Ramzan. 2008.

Ninety Seven percent of Kashmiri’s are Muslims, and for the followers of Islam, the “Aakhri Jumma” is one of the most holy day in the year. In Kashmir the namaaz is offered by either the Mirwaiz at Jamma masjid or by another equally prominent and religious head at the Hazratbal. Over 400,000 people pray at each of these locations on the last Friday of Ramzan. I was adamant on shooting this historic gathering.

Permissions were a bummer, but when we did get them, we were told by the intelligence to shoot at our own risk. There would be no security, as they did not advise us to film in this highly volatile and sensitive scenario. To make things worse, we had a British cinematographer, Jamie Fowlds, who was a possible kidnapping target. We spoke to the Mirwaiz himself, and he assured us full safety and security. Shahid –Ul- Islam, an ex militant himself, and now a member of the Hurriat would help us with our ambitious mission. I was going to be the first Indian who was granted permission to shoot at the mosque. It was history in the making.

That day, our minimal crew of seven, entered the mosque at 7 am. We had to get there early because, we were told to steal a spot, and not move; or rather it would be impossible to move. By 9 am the place would be packed, as people would be coming from all over Kashmir. Namaz was 2.20 pm and until then no water, no food, and also no toilets to go to. Claustrophobic that I am, I started panicking the moment I got there. What if some troublemaker, lobs in a grenade at this gathering or a fire? Can you imagine a stampede of over 4 lac people in an enclosed mosque with only one exit? Damn, I thought- what have I gotten us into? Once again, the passion for Lamhaa, and the confidence in the Mirwaiz’s word, gave me the courage of going through with this shoot and I am so glad I that I did.

By 10 am the place was half full. (I don’t have the exact specifications, but the mosque built in 1400 a.d. had over 350 wooden pillars and a beautiful courtyard the size of at least 4 football fields). We were given a spot right next to where the Mirwaiz would preach from (extremely rare), and a stickler that I am, had also made provisions to shoot at three other locations to get a complete coverage of the event. By noon, when the Mirwaiz arrived, the mosque was packed with devotees all sitting in straight lines- shoulder-to-shoulder and back-to-back. It was so packed, we literally felt like sardines in a can. How were we to shift our entire equipment- a huge camera, lens boxes, filters, batteries the size of briefcases and of course our suitcase of raw stock, through this crowd? It was Shahid who at the behest of the Mirwaiz, reassured me and assigned the chief of security to look after our needs.

The Mirwaiz is young and dynamic. Very well spoken and extremely articulate person.  We had met a couple of times prior at his residence and had discussed world issues including the United States International policies. Like most Kashmiris he too is extremely hospitable and polite.  Today, he was larger than life for the assembled crowd. He was their preacher, their leader, their hope and future! A great orator, his sermon was inspiring. He addressed issues like development, technology, infrastructure and communications and whilst doing so, never forgot the sentiments and ideology of the people.

One of my co-writers Ashwath Bhatt, is a Kashmiri himself, and he always told me that “Naare baazi” or slogans, are natural to the people of the valley. The Mirwaiz himself recited one of the slogans Ashwath wrote for my film verbatim. I believe this slogan is as old as the movement fro freedom is. It goes like-

 “Jis Kashmir ko khoon se sincha- who Kashmir humara hai”; This unique way of propaganda and also of uniting the masses is novel. The Mirwaiz has mastered it, as he would frequently interrupt his preaching by his famous call “Awaaz do” to which over 400,000 people unanimous shouted - “Hum Ek hai”. He ended the almost 2 hour long prayer and sermon with the words generations of Kashmiris have been screaming out loud and proud: “Hum Kya Chahte hai ? AZAADI !!! Being an Indian (Most Kashmiris do not consider themselves to be Indians), it was an experience watching the frenzy of this community. I was awe struck, to say the least.

The proceedings ended with a Namaaz, the highlights of the day, which is a film makers delight. Every single one person in the entire Jamma Masjid, disciplined, and dedicated in their prayers, stands up and sits down about three times, in perfect coordination as if it was choreographed especially for the camera. It was spellbinding that I had to include it in Lamhaa.

There are some events in life you have to see to believe, and the Aakhri Jumma at the Jama Masjid is one such event. The ambience of the mosque, the presence of the Mirwaiz, the assembly of almost half a million Kashmiris expressing their open disgust at India; and amidst all this, an Indian, filming in the most pious spots of Kashmir. It was scary but yet beautiful. It was unnerving, but yet peaceful. It was religious and yet poetic. It is probably one of the most memorable experience I have had. 

We wrapped the shoot at about 3 pm, went back to our hotels to prepare for the shoot of Badi Raat- at the Hazratbal mosque- another breathtaking sight.

Its been almost a year since I was in Kashmir during Ramzan and strangely, we are in Ramzan as I write.